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Fashion Week 2025  / DAVID KOMA

DAVID KOMA WOMENSWEAR AUTUMN-WINTER 2025
 

In honour of the 15th anniversary of the house, David Koma Autumn-Winter 2025 collection is a celebration of the brand’s identity and evolution of its signature codes elevated to a couture-like grandeur. Though Koma has never been one for nostalgia, this milestone offers the opportunity to refine, reimagine, and push the boundaries of his own archives, fusing the past with a vision for the future. The result is a timeless collection that feels both deeply familiar and entirely new, where iconic house codes are transformed into sculptural masterpieces, and every detail is imbued with an undeniable sense of extravagance.

 

Referencing 1950s silhouettes, the collection modernises classic shapes through unexpected fabric combinations and couture-esque embroidery. The signature architectural neckline, first seen in designer’s Central Saint Martin’s graduate collection, takes fresh dimensions, while the fusion of nipped-in waists with exaggerated hips further the house’s exploration of form. Transparency, a nod to the ongoing celebration of the female physique, finds new expression in sheer tulle gowns with long, dramatic trains.

 

 

Leather, an ever-present material choice, appears in its most supple and luxurious incarnation, transformed into an oversized coat with cascading fringe that moves with hypnotic precision or meticulously draped into a floor-length skirt, giving a modern twist to eveningwear. Sequins, which have long defined the house’s mastery of shimmer, are reinterpreted as structured column gowns with exaggerated hips. A stretch lycra and crinkle taffeta bubble skirt dress adds a contemporary, sporty edge to a  traditionally feminine silhouette.

 

Koma revisits his polka dot-themed collection through a visual feast of texture and contrast: silver, glistening discs float on an ethereal fluid gown and bridal-inspired veil, while their matte leather counterparts are layered atop one another, forming a sculptural, almost armour-like corseted mini dress. Sequin discs are embroidered onto fringing, creating the illusion of polka dots in motion. Feathers, a hallmark element in Koma’s repertoire, take on a new form—transformed into polka dot-like clusters embellishing sheer gowns or reimagined as pom-pom feathered scarves.

 

 


Bows are taken to dramatic new heights—voluminous taffeta versions cinch the waist to create sculptural skirts, are sharply draped across tailored jackets, or are cheekily placed at the lower back, injecting a playful sensuality. The regal influence of past collections, which paid homage to London and the opulence of the British monarchy, resurfaces in dazzling jewel embellishments. Embroidered across architectural necklines or asymmetrically cascading down bodices, these oversized gemstone appliqués exude a commanding, almost warrior-like elegance.

 

 

The colour palette remains true to the house’s signature monochromatic themes, with classic black and white providing the foundation, while a striking Klein blue injects an electrifying burst of intensity. Fifteen years on, David Koma sharpens his vision with a collection that stands as a bold statement of intent - an evolution of the house’s unmistakable codes, refined and reimagined for the modern woman.

 

 

CREDITS
STYLING 

MARC GOEHRING
PHOTOGRAPHY
ZOE NATALE MANNELLA
MODELS
ANIPHA UMUFITE, GRACE CAMERON, LUISA VAGEDES
CASTING
SVEA GREICHGAUER
PRODUCTION
ANCC STUDIO
BTS VIDEOGRAPHY
DYLAN HAYES
HAIR
MASAYOSHI FUJITA
MAKE UP
KOSEI KITADA

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DAVID KOMA
 AW2025

THE LUMEN

Hale Studios Ltd

Unit12, Studio 14

Millmead Industrial Estate

Millmead Road

London

N17 9QU

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